The Yellow Farmhouse Garden

June 7, 2013

Columbine leaf miner

Filed under: Flowers,Insects — bob @ 7:56 am

Aquilegia — or columbine — is one of the easiest flowers to grow. It is a perennial that also produces viable seeds. Therefore, it can  re-seed itself.

Basically,  once you get it established in your garden, it pretty much takes care of itself  and comes up year after year.

They do have their own set of problems, however. The most common pest you are likely to see is the columbine leaf miner.

The leaf miner is the larval stage of a fly that attacks the leaves of the columbine. It hatches from an egg laid by a female fly. The larva feeds by burrowing between the top and bottom surfaces of the leaf chewing tunnels as it goes along. This mining of the leaf is how it gets its name.

The tunnels made by the Columbine leaf miner are very east to spot.

Because the miner lives inside the leaf, it is protected from most insecticides. Fortunately, even though the leaves can look quite bad, the leaf miner doesn’t seriously hurt the plant.

There are several generations of leaf miners each season. Spraying insecticides doesn’t help the problem and can actually make matters worse by killing off the leaf miners natural enemies.

The best way to minimize the damage is to pick off and destroy any damage leaves as they appear. Then, in the fall take out all of the old leaves and tops and get rid of those too.

In my case, too many leaves have miners in them — I’m guessing well over 80 percent. Since the plants are not showing any signs of  weakening, I ‘ll just let them go until fall.

Bob

May 16, 2013

Remove flower stalks from tulips, hyacinths and daffodils after blooming

Filed under: Flowers — bob @ 9:08 am

Most of our daffodils, tulips and hyacinths are done blooming for the season. That doesn’t mean that we can forget about them.  There’s still some work left to be done that will greatly improve our chances for flowers next year.

Right now the plants are beginning  to form seed pods at the end of the flower stalks — where the old flower is attached. This is normally what happens when the plants are left to fend for themselves.

The seed pods are formed on the ends of the flower stalk where the old flower is attached.

The problem with seed pods is they take too much energy to grow and we don’t need seeds to grow tulips, hyacinths or daffodils. To conserve that wasted energy, we need to remove those flower stalks as soon as possible after the flowers have faded. I try to cut the flower stalks as close to the base of the plant as I can being careful not to cut off the leaves. Plants need their leaves to produce energy for growth, reproduction and other plant functions.

Since I don’t plant as many bulbs now as I did in past years, this job for me is not as demanding as it used to be. This year I only have a few hundred stalks to cut.

Bob

May 2, 2013

Flowers for hummingbirds

Filed under: Birds,Flowers — bob @ 12:32 pm

Bees and butterflys are fun to watch  but, I think humingbirds are the most facinating visitors to a garden. No matter how many times you see them, they never fail to surprise and amaze.

Hummingbirds use a huge huge amount of energy in realation to their size.  Sugars found in flower nectar is source of this energy. Everyday they eat their body weight in nectar so they are constantly on the lookout for nectar-producing flowers.

You can encourage hummingbirds to visit your yard by planting the flowers they’re looking for.

They prefer red and orange tubular flowers but will feed on most brightly-colored flowers with nectar. There’s plenty of flowers that meet these requirements.

Here’s a partial list to consider: monarda, red salvia, agastache, honeysuckle vine, fushia, verbena, phlox, butterfly bush, daylily, trumpet creeper, cypress vine, coral bells, heirloom petunias, penstemnon, morning glory, bugle weed, red-hot poker, and many others.

Like people, hummingbirds also need protien and fats in their diet. They get those nutients by eating gnats, mousquitos and other small insects. So, having an area of wild plants — weeds — nearby will provide space for these small insects to grow.

If you have the space for it, a mixed garden like this will provide all the nutrients hummingbirds need. Tubular flowers for nectar and other flowers for small insects to live in.

Finally, hummingbirds need trees and shrubs to provide a place for them to nest and to escape from predators.

If you look around, you’ll probably see that most of the things hummingbirds need are already in your neighborhood.

Planting the right kind of flowers is the best way to get hummingbirds to hang out in your backyard.

April 25, 2013

Prune forsythia after flowering

Filed under: Flowers,Shrubs — bob @ 11:05 am

It looks like a good spring for forsythia this year. I’m seeing plenty of yellow flowers on forsythia shrubs all around our area.

Some bushes have loads of flowers while others look not quite as nice. The difference is,  gardeners with forsythia loaded with flowers have taken the time to prune their shrubs, while the others have just let their shrubs fend for themselves.

Unfortunately, some people prune their forsythia right along with their other trees and shrubs in the early spring while everything is still dormant.

Forsythia flower buds grow and form during the summer then, open up and bloom in the spring. So, if you prune in the spring while the plants are dormant, you end up cutting off those flower buds that grew last year.

The proper time to prune forsythia is right after the flower petals fall off of the stems.

Remove the largest, coarsest stems by cutting them off right at ground level. This will stimulate your shrub to send up fresh, new stems with plenty of those flower buds we’re looking for.

Next spring you’ll have a more balanced looking shrub with a profusion of yellow forsythia blossoms. Your neighbors will think you are a gardening genius.

Bob

April 18, 2013

Cool temeratures keep bulbs flowering longer

Filed under: Flowers,Weather — bob @ 2:57 pm

Many gardeners have been enjoying the cool spring this year — especially those who spent days and days last fall planting spring flowering bulbs.

In years past, I planted as many as 20 thousand tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth bulbs in one fall season. For many years I considered 10 thousand bulbs to be a light planting year. It took my helper and me several weeks to get those flower bulbs into the ground before winter arrived.

Tulips will flower much longer when the weather is cool.

Then I would wait until spring to see the results of all of that work. Most of the time spring progressed normally and the bulbs put on a show that lasted for weeks. Every once-in-a-while a week of summer-like weather would occur in early spring. All of the bulbs would shoot up out of the ground, bloom, and die-back all within about a week’s time. How disappointing those springs were — one week of spring flowering for six weeks of hard work in the fall.

This year we’re having a nice, slow start to spring. Our bulbs are slowly opening and their flowers look like they will stay fresh for sometime.

Spring bulbs are the best reason to hope for a cool spring.

Bob

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