The Yellow Farmhouse Garden

June 29, 2012

Protecting Blueberries From Birds

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 2:20 pm

In an attempt to avoid the heat, I’ve been getting out to work in the garden early in the morning every day this week.

A couple days ago, I heard a bird making a noisy racket up in a tree near one end of the garden. I walked over to see what all the fuss was about. Just as I neared the tree a blackbird flew out and landed in the other end of the garden, right near the spot I was working in.  It was where my blueberry bushes are located. Apparently, the bird was scolding me for being so near his breakfast.  Looking closer, I discovered it was the day the first blueberries ripened.

Without the help from a feathered friend, I wouldn't have nearly as many blueberries to photograph

Unbeknownst to him, the bird reminded me that it was time to cover the blueberries. All kinds of birds love blueberries. Once they discover where your blueberries are, they can wipe out your whole crop in a day.

I learned that lesson many years ago. At that time, I had about a half an acre planted. The fellow helping me neglected to protect the crop. I got a frantic phone call from him one day. He said that someone sneaked in overnight and stole all of the berries he was going to pick that day. He didn’t realize that a huge flock of birds found our blueberries and ate all of them. His thought was it would be nice to share a few berries with the wildlife since we had so many.

I have only a few bushes in my garden now so, it is easy to cover them.  I threw some row-cover material over the bushes and secured it with some clothes pins.  Row-cover material is light-weight and doesn’t press down the branches. Netting works fine too if you can devise a way to keep it away from the bushes. Otherwise the birds can pick the berries right through the net.

Light-weight row cover material works great if you have a small number of blueberries to protect.

This year, one bird’s greed helped me save my blueberry crop.

Bob

May 22, 2012

Damaged Apple Buds

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 11:16 am

I checked my apple trees this week to see if there were any apples left after that freeze we had a couple of weeks ago. I found only a handful of small apples that looked like they could grow on to maturity.

Over 99 percent of the buds were frosted and subsequently fell off the tree. I found a few buds that were still hanging on but, once I touched them with my finger, they fell to the ground.

Apple buds
The tiny apple on top will probably grow into a mature fruit. The small bud below was killed by the frost and has already separated from the tree.

There are other small, growing fruits left on the tree but many of them are deformed. In those cases, the cold temperature killed only part of the bud. They will grow to maturity but will still be gnarled.

We have only a few trees — imagine having acres of trees and having to depend on them for your livelihood.

The question now is, do I continue to spray? I probably will spray a few times, just to help keep insects and foliage diseases in check.

Bob

June 3, 2011

Plum Curculio Damage on Apples

Filed under: Fruit,Insects,Trees — bob @ 10:08 am

The cold, wet spring we had is fast becoming a distant memory now that nice weather is finally here. One thing that keeps reminding me of spring is the insect damage I see on my apples.

It was difficult for me to spray the apples at just the right time in between all the rainy days we had early in the season.  As a result, my apples are showing signs of plum curculio damage.

The plum curculio is a small (1/4 inch long) beetle that attacks apples, pears, peaches, cherries and of course, plums.  The adult female emerged a couple of weeks after the apple blossoms fell.  That’s when I should have sprayed. But, it was rainy and I was gone for a few days and missed the critical spray.

The adult female curculio cuts a crescent shaped slit in the skin of the apple, and then lays an egg under the flap of apple skin.  The egg hatches and the tiny worn that emerges starts eating the young apple.

Plum curculio damage on developing apples.

Many of these damaged apples will fall off; some will stay on the tree and grow to full size but will have scars left from the curculio attack. The cherries, peaches and plums won’t be so lucky; they will all fall to the ground carrying the growing curculio larvae with them. There they will grow.  As they reach full size, the burrow into the soil. Later in the summer, the mature curculios emerge from the soil and feed for a while before they hibernate under the leaves for winter.

The plum curculios are still be laying eggs at this point in the season, so it is a good idea to keep up your spraying routine. Other pests will be out in the orchard attacking your fruit trees too.

Bob

April 13, 2011

Over-Wintered Orange Trees

Filed under: Fruit,Greenhouse,Trees — bob @ 9:58 am

We brought out our two Valencia orange trees during the warm spell we had earlier in the week.  I figured the really cold weather was behind us for the most part.  These trees are about 5 feet tall and are in 18 inch terra-cotta pots.

The two trees are part of an informal experiment I have been conducting over the past two years.  They were not kept in a greenhouse or even in the house in front of a south window; instead I put them into our semi-heated garage.  They each received some sunlight from a small south window; the size of window you would expect to find in a garage.

The temperature ranged from the upper 30′s F to lower 40′s F through most of the winter.  There were a few days when the heat was raised a bit up into the 50 degree F range.

I cut way back on watering.  They received water only five or six times during the whole winter.  I let the leaves start to wilt before I even thought about watering.  Then I watered just enough so the water began to drain out of the bottom of the pots.  Neither pot had a saucer under it so they didn’t stand in water.  They didn’t get any fertilizer either.

About mid-winter, the trees looked like they went into a kind of semi-dormant state.

Even though the trees seemed to be hibernating, the oranges that were on the tree last fall turned orange and ripened.  The fruit  didn’t get much bigger which is no surprise considering the lack of water.

There are quite a few oranges on our over-wintered orange trees.

Last night it got down to 33 degrees F and I left the oranges outside.  They looked perfectly fine this morning; they are used to the cool temperatures.

This is a good way to keep trees like these over winter if you are short on space in your house.  You don’t have room in the garage either? … well I can’t help you there.

Bob

November 30, 2010

Cut Back Fall Raspberries

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 4:00 pm

One of the remaining jobs in my garden is taking care of this season’s old raspberry plants. Fortunately I have an ever-bearing variety planted.

Older gardeners will remember when most of the raspberries grown would be ripe for picking in mainly in the summer. To stretch out the season growers would have to plant an early, a mid-season and a late variety. By doing this they could harvest raspberries over a longer period of time.

The standard varieties of raspberry plants have two life cycles, the growing stage and the fruiting stage. During the growing stage no fruit is produced. When the second year rolls around the fruit is produced on those canes that grew last year. Once the raspberry patch has established itself, there will be growing canes and fruiting canes present at the same time. To confuse matters even more, once a cane has fruited, it must be removed. All of this detailed pruning must be done by hand one cane at a time.

It’s no wonder that a lot of raspberry growers have switched over to the ever-bearing varieties. Pruning is greatly simplified by growing those types. In this case all you need to do for pruning is to cut back or mow all of the canes within a couple of inches from the ground, rake them up and dispose of them. Using this method, you have one harvest that begins late in the summer and continues until fruiting is stopped by the fall frosts.

Cut fall raspberry canes just above ground level.

Some gardeners will mulch their patch after cutting back to protect the remaining raspberry crowns and roots from the winter temperatures. Usually snow cover will provide enough protection in Michigan.

Be sure you either burn the cut off canes or set them out for the trash pick up. Composting will not be effective in killing any disease organisms present in the prunings.

I have scanned an old bulletin for anyone who might be  interested in the finer points of raspberry growing.

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