The Yellow Farmhouse Garden

May 10, 2010

Critical Fruit Tree Spray Application

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 8:14 am

Every year I get comments from people saying that they can’t seem to grow good fruit.  I ask if they have done any spraying to control insects and diseases, some say “not really”, others say “a little” and others say “yes, quite a bit”. Digging deeper I find a common thread, they all missed the critical early spring sprays.

It’s too late to spray those dormant sprays of course and it’s past time to apply  the early pre-blossom sprays thanks to the unusually warm weather we had in March. That leaves us with the early all purpose sprays.

Most of the damage to your tree fruit will occur at this time during their growth cycle while the fruit is just beginning to develop.

A tiny apple like this needs your help to fend off pests.

My suggestion is to select an all-purpose fruit tree spray and begin your spraying schedule immediately.  The schedule is simple: spray every 7 to 10 days and after every time it rains.  Mark it on your calendar if you have to.

You can be more lax about spraying later in the season.  Some people even stop spraying all together later in the season and end up with acceptable fruit, but they are the gardeners who are very careful about their early sprays.

Those tiny little growing fruit on the tree need your help to fight off insects and diseases, they can’t do it on their own.  You will be rewarded for your effort at harvest time.

Bob

April 29, 2010

How Deep to Plant Fruit Trees

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 3:21 pm

Some confusion seems to surround the notion of dwarf, semi-dwarf and full sized (standard) fruit trees.

Virtually all fruit trees sold these days have started out their life as a normal bud or twig growing on a tree.  A nurseryman cut the bud or twig (now called a scion) from that tree and grafted it onto another tree called a “rootstock”.  The top of the rootstock is removed so that the growing energy of the roots is transferred to the newly grafted the scion. From that single bud, a new tree is grown.

Keep in mind that it is the rootstock that determines the size of a tree; not the bud, variety  or other factor.

Different rootstocks have different dwarfing capabilities, some will only allow the scion to grow into a very small tree that will stay small no matter how old it gets. Other rootstocks allow a bit more height in the tree, these are the semi-dwarf.  Standard (full sized) trees are grafted onto rootstocks that have no dwarfing capacity at all.

When planting dwarf or semi-dwarf trees, it is essential that the graft union (the spot where the scion and root are joined) is planted at least 2″ above the surface of the soil.  If the tree is planted too deeply and the graft union is below the soil surface, the scion above the union will sprout and grow roots.  These new roots will over-take the dwarf rootstock and “cancel out” any dwarfing that may take place. That can be a real problem if you were planning on fitting a dwarf tree  into a small area.

The graft union shown here is quite visible forming a bump or jog on the trunk.

On the other hand, if you for some reason changed your mind about having a dwarf tree and decided you would like a full tree instead, you can just go ahead and plant the  tree deep enough so the graft is below the surface.

Even with Standard trees however,  it is a good idea to keep the graft union above the soil.  Often the roots of the rootstock are hardier than the roots of the grafted portion.  This can be a real advantage to the tree if it is planted in a less than ideal location.

Bob

April 23, 2010

New Fruit Trees From the Roots Up

Filed under: Fruit,Uncategorized — bob @ 9:39 am

Many mail-order companies will be shipping out their fruit tree orders the next couple of weeks.  If you have been out and about I’m sure you have noticed fruit trees for sale in local garden centers as well.

The fruit trees you will be receiving from catalog mail-order companies will be shipped bare root; which means just as it says, no soil at all around the roots.  Larger nurseries dig their fruit trees in the fall and store them in cold storage units at precise temperature and humidity conditions.  By doing that, they are not at the mercy of unpredictable spring weather like we had last month.

The smaller nurserymen, those without cold storage, have to leave their trees in the field and dig them as they are sold in the spring. If an unusually warm spell occurs, the trees will begin to leaf out and grow.  Since the trees are in a fragile condition at this stage of their growth, they cannot be shipped. So this year the smaller fruit tree growers had an extremely early and short digging and selling season.  For the larger growers of course, it was business as usual.

A bare root tree has the advantage of growing and developing roots in the soil  in your yard, thereby adapting itself to your growing conditions.

Trees you find in the garden centers are also a type of bare-root tree  even though they have soil around them.  In this case the nursery takes the bare root tree and places it into a pot or bag with a moist, light-weight potting mix around the roots.  This is done so that the when the tree starts to grow, it can safely be sold at a retail garden store and be in great shape for you to plant into your yard.

During the growing season if a fruit tree is not sold, it is usually then moved into a sturdier container. These are the trees in the nursery pots  you see at garden centers and are fine to purchase. The containers allow the trees to develop roots and grow like a potted plant.

The final type of tree you might see being offered for sale are the  ‘balled and burlapped’ trees, sometimes known as “b&b.   These trees have been left to grow to a larger size out in the field.  When the tree is dug, a large mass of roots along with its’ soil is dug and wrapped in burlap.  The nurseryman takes care not to damage the roots and digs a root ball large enough to support the tree after it is planted.

The advantage of a b&b tree is that it is much larger and older than a bare root tree. Often these trees are ready to produce fruit that season and you have an “instant orchard”. The disadvantage is the cost of purchasing these trees, even the relatively smaller b&b trees can cost $200 or more compared to $20 for a bare root fruit tree. The cost of shipping a b&b tree is also quite high due to the weight of all of that soil.  Also, the tree roots may have trouble adapting to the soil in your yard and simply stay confined to the root ball. The sheer weight of a tree of this type makes it hard to handle as well.

Fruit trees are offered for sale as dwarf, semi-dwarf or full size trees; we’ll discuss that issue next time.

Bob

April 3, 2010

Eastern Tent Caterpillars are Hatching

Filed under: Fruit,Insects — bob @ 10:41 am

Those nasty tents of caterpillars that you see up in the trees in early summer have already begun to appear.  The above average temperatures we have been experiencing has caused our local population of  Eastern Tent Caterpillars to hatch from their egg masses during the last couple of days.

The egg were laid last fall by the adult tent caterpillar moth.

It is very easy to get rid of the caterpillars right now because they are only about one-eight of an inch long and very susceptible to sprays or even just squashing by hand.  Look for the masses near the ends of the twigs of apple, cherry, plum and other related trees. The egg masses are a little difficult to spot, but once you have see one, it’s a lot easier to recognize them.  Many times you can simply snip off the twig containing the egg mass and discard it.

This egg mass is already covered with a fine tent web spun by the caterpillars. The dark specks are frass (droppings) from the caterpillars.

The  egg masses look like a blob of foam that has dried out and hardened. The caterpillars spend the winter in these eggs then hatch out the same time the trees begin to leaf out in the spring.  These very tender newly “sprouting” leaves are like baby food to the newly hatched infant  caterpillars.

The tiny caterpillars are clearly visible in this photo.

Sometimes, if a severe rainstorm occurs during this stage, many of the caterpillars will be washed away.  Perfect timing of a storm doesn’t happen very often so I wouldn’t count on that to control your problem.

The “tent worms” will feed voraciously and devour a lot of leaves but generally won’t kill a tree or cause any  lasting damage.

Bob

April 10, 2007

Prune Your Grapes…Now!

Filed under: Fruit — bob @ 4:19 pm

The cold weather has been a mixed blessing. By now I would have had our grapes pruned. The cool temperatures have slowed down their development enough for me to catch my breath and get caught up a little bit.

Usually, in April, the grapes would be budded out, making pruning a hazardous prospect for the vine. You see, if grapes buds start to swell, they become soft and fragile. Many of the buds that you would like to keep can be broken off during the pruning process. As you well know, grapes become a tangled mess when growing and when pruning you have to tug and pull on the vines to get them out of your arbor.

Pruning before bud swell eliminates all of this damage.

As you can see, I have a lot of pruning to do. This photo was taken from above the grape arbor, looking down. It is about 75′-80′ long and 10′-12′ wide.

Looking down on Grape Arbor

Describing the whole process of grape pruning is a discussion that is too long to cover in a blog post. I will tell you a couple of things though. You cannot over-prune established grape vines. They are very vigorous growers.

If you have a traditional two wire system holding the grape vines, prune back everything except 8 or 10 buds on each branch coming off of the main trunk. A two wire system gives you 4 branches; one to the left, and one to the right of the trunk on the top wire; and one to the left and one to the right on the bottom wire. This is the most common method of training grapes.

So, 90 to 95% of the vines have to be cut off each year! This is a whole lot more than if you were pruning a fruit tree or shrub.

That’s all I have time for now, if I get a chance I’ll post an “after” picture of the grape arbor. Meanwhile, take advantage of this lucky turn in the weather and prune those grapes before it warms up!

Bob

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